Editorial

Chitose Abe's Sacai Presents Hybrid Style For AW19

Offering a fusion of workwear, military apparel and high fashion, Sacai showcases an exceptional vision of myriad aesthetics.

Ten years on since Chitose Abe’s label Sacai branched into the realm of menswear, the Japanese brand has situated itself as a central instigator in the rise of mix and match cut & sew. A prodigious presence in the global menswear circuit, Abe originally trained under Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe at Comme des Garçons, developing a wholly identifiable and timeless stylistic sensibility before starting her own label in 1998. Known for blending the seemingly disparate, Abe’s creations offer a stimulating and eminently wearable aesthetic. Championing both militaria and traditional workwear looks, Abe splices pieces together to create stunning wearable collages that cultivate a singular perspective on modern menswear.

Painstakingly designed and expertly constructed, Abe’s label has gone from strength to strength, amassing a cult following for her refined cross-pollination of styles. Staying true to her vision of menswear, Abe’s aesthetic practice celebrates multiplicity, delivering garments that fail to toe the line, offering an expressive and nuanced take on classic silhouettes. Further permeating into the consciousness of the zeitgeist with her multi-layered collaborative Nike LDWaffle and Blazer sneakers, Sacai continues to proffer a striking and cutting-edge look that delivers a combination of both contemporary style and the timelessness that is synonymous with the brand’s output.

For AW19, Abe’s cult-label excels with a plethora of unmistakeable signature details. Centring around the transplantation of MA-1 bomber jackets into denim jackets, fleeces and hooded sweatshirts, the brand’s esotericism shines through with a touch of the everyday. Transforming classic garments with a twist of the unusual, Sacai celebrate the unexpected, rooted in the eminently wearable.  

Cast in the label’s favoured palette of rich military green and deep navy-blue, leopard print adds a flourish and a flamboyance to the proceedings, while subtle trousers offset the avant-garde, hybrid approach of Abe’s outerwear and midlayers. A maximalist vision of contemporary menswear, Chitose Abe’s Sacai encapsulates the duplicitous attitude that pervades contemporary high-end menswear. Bridging the gap between high fashion and streetwear through a literal merging of styles, Sacai continues to showcase the beauty of reconstruction.

The first drop from Sacai’s AW19 collection is available online now at END.

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