Once described as fashion’s most famed outsider, American-born designer Rick Owens has acquired a cult-like following with his eponymous label.
Designing fashion with a distinctive aesthetic, where grunge and glamour are fused into a singular subversive vision. Leaning into dark, monochromatic palettes, expect experimental materials, asymmetrical cuts, elongated silhouettes and raw edges. Seeing his fashion as a form of protest and poetry, the clothing is polished yet provocative. With Rick Owens, indulging in Gothic-influenced fashion has never been easier.
Here, we look at the label’s formative years, providing insight into everything Rick Owens.
Born in Porterville, California, Rick Owens grew up in a conservative, Catholic household. After graduating high school, he moved to LA to study Art and Design. Fast forward two years, Owens began taking pattern-making and draping courses, setting the wheels in motion for the eventual worldwide fashion empire.
Rick Owens was launched in 1994. Originally, he sold deconstructed, Gothic-inspired clothing from a small boutique, named Palais Royal, on Hollywood Boulevard. With his trademark long locks and uniform of black and grey monotones cloaked over white sneakers, there have been comparisons to the Grim Reaper. Rick could be fashion’s very own glamorous figure of death.
Propelling him into the fashion spotlight, Vogue’s Anna Wintour sponsored his runway debut at New York Fashion Week in 2002. Rising to fame with his avant-garde collections and iconic leather jackets, a move to Paris the following year marked a pivotal shift for Owens. Allowing him to expand his brand, it cemented his global influence in the process.
A fashion rule-breaker, Rick Owens menswear and womenswear have a signature Gothic aesthetic. Known as the “Lord of Darkness”, Rick Owens has built a reputation for dramatic silhouettes, muted palettes, and post-apocalyptic glamour. With highly anticipated collections that challenge fashion conventions, expect expert craftsmanship and a consistent, visionary style. As Creative Director, Rick Owens maintains full creative control, overseeing all aspects of its design.
Producing an extensive range of distinctive ready-to-wear pieces, Rick Owens continues to design and manufacture in the Italian town of Concordia sulla Secchia. Home to Owenscorp’s main factory, the site also acts as a creative hub for new ideas and experimentation.
Using various sub-labels, the Rick Owens clothing empire explores varying textures, price ranges and references, all whilst still identifying with a core Gothic identity. Owens appeals to a wide audience, where each line expands the creative universe.
Creating high-end, runway focused pieces, the Owens main line is renowned for architectural silhouettes, luxury materials, and headline-worthy runway shows.
Niche, artistic, and often collector-focused, Rick Owens Slab used minimalist garments with unique finishes and fabric treatments. With raw finishes, distressed textures, Rick Owens SLAB explored “luxury minimalism” through a rebellious lens, before being replaced by DRKSHDW.
Launched in 2005, the diffusion line brings signature avant-garde design to contemporary streetwear. Seeing the worlds of grunge and glam collide, expect denim, jersey, and sneakers with a raw edge.
Celebrating radical self expression, Rick Owens references many underground style movements and alternative communities with his clothing. Challenging the normal conventions of fashion, expect many distinctive aesthetics:
Beyond fashion, Rick Owens builds worlds inspired by these unique communities. Creating a space for freeform, rebellion and beauty, Owens designs for ‘misfits’ and those outside societal norms.
A founding pillar of the label, Rick Owens’ leather jackets are consistent in seasonal collections. Stooges and Biker are both famous Rick Owens leather jackets; synonymous with an avant-garde aesthetic, quality fabrics, asymmetric zips and sculptured shoulders. Rick Owens’ interpretation of the flight jacket plays with proportions, regularly seen with exaggerated sleeves, where formal coats are either draped or sharply tailored.
Rick Owens tops mirror architectural design, subcultural influences, and rebellion inspired motifs. The ‘Level’ t-shirt is both minimal and eccentric: a classic crew neck tee cut longer in the body, sitting below the hip. The ‘Jumbo’ t-shirt is also draped in the body, but fits more oversized. All in monochromatic colours, of course. Fabric choices favoured for Rick Owens’ t-shirts are cotton jersey and viscose, often with raw hems. For the DRKSHDW line, the star motif is often featured on tees: often appearing as a pentagram, a playful representation of paganism that’s designed to provoke conventional norms. As with many Rick Owens’ designs, hoodies are threaded with the signature elongated drawstrings, while playing into the same oversized aesthetic.
For the full Rick Owens uniform, a pair of trousers complete the grunge-inspired look. Prevalent in both the main and DRKSHDW diffusion line, drop-crotch pants are a classic for Rick. Often made using cotton twill or denim, with elongated drawstrings. In summer, the ‘Pod’ and ‘Bela’ shorts have the same Rick Owens DNA: voluminous proportions, Gothic style, and the drawstrings.
Inspired by gothic elements for over 20 years, Rick Owens ‘Geobasket’ sneaker is unapologetically bold. Groundbreaking on its debut, the ‘Geobasket’ is a part-boot, part-sneaker that’s defined by its exaggerated tongue and oversized proportions. It was first introduced at Pitti Uomo in 2006 as the “first ever luxury basketball sneaker”, and has influenced many a design after. Owens famously said, “I wanted monster trucks for my feet”, and it’s exactly what the ‘Geobasket’ sneaker delivered.
Next up, Rick Ownes ‘Ramone’. Taking cues from Converse, this Rick Owens sneaker is ‘70s-inspired, with shark tooth edges and premium leather uppers. A high-top sneaker, the ‘Ramone’ can be worn daily to compliment the head-to-toe all-black uniform.
One strand of the Owens legacy is the ease of wearing the brand’s clothing. Each piece works effortlessly. For die-hard fans that want to accessorise: belts, hats, scarves and jewellery all carry the grunge-glamour DNA of Rick. Belts have the dramatic contrast of black leather, silver buckles and hardware. Similarly, chunky silver zips often accompany leather goods.
The Rick Owens uniform is complete with caps and beanies, all in monochrome shades like black and dust. Scarves and gloves usually lean into the draping aesthetic of Rick Owens, along with frayed hems and playful proportions.
Rick Owen’s jewellery fits into the Gothic style: silver and matte finishes with the pentagram, a regular symbol on necklaces, bracelets and key chains. The symbol was brought to life replacing the traditional star, provoking moralistic standards. The geometric shape often seen on Rick Owens’ jewellery represents a magical and opposing playfulness, along with uncertainty and fear.
Rick Owens’ unconventional silhouettes make checking measurements essential. With oversized, elongated and sculptural cuts, the standard men's sizing rules don’t apply here.
With sub label DRKSHDW tending to be more streetwear focused, expect slouchy fits and relaxed cuts.
An extension of Rick Owens and Moncler, avant-garde fashion meets luxury outerwear in this ongoing collaboration. Moncler provides structure and functionality, Rick Owens delivers the conceptual tension. The looks—from oversized bombers, to lightweight outerwear in nylon and leather—focus on the DNA of both brands. Alpine heritage is in full force, with Owens dystopian elegance.
Using signature boots that both labels are renowned for, the Rick Owens Dr Martens collaboration focuses on industrial grunge and architectural edge. Undergoing a signature Rick Owens jumbo lace treatment, the Megalace and Steel Toe Boot get an even bolder upgrade.
Paying homage to Owens’s hometown of Porterville, California, the exclusive collection experimented with many distinctive silhouettes. Using stoles, shoulder pads, and boots, jerseys were signed off with signature ‘Porterville’ prints.
Rick Owens ladies clothing is defined by the same avant-garde and brutalist aesthetic as the men’s. Priding itself on elongated silhouettes, monochrome palettes, and architectural draping, high-fashion pieces are made with luxury fabrics.
Synonymous with dramatic volume, asymmetry and raw edges, look out for dresses, coats, and tops.
Streetwear-inspired with a darker, more casual edge, the women’s DRKSHDW diffusion line includes hoodies, tees, cargo pants, and sneakers. Using cotton jersey, denim, and technical fabrics, style and craftsmanship come together harmoniously.
Inspired by industrial design and material innovation, contemporary streetwear label A-COLD-WALL* propounds a lens on the social structure of the modern British working class. Looking through a luxury lens, Samuel Ross’ label creates ready to wear pieces, offering a unique and sophisticated take on contemporary streetwear.
Reimagining luxury streetwear, Undercover is the brainchild of Jun Takahashi. Embodying the quintessence of Japanese cool, the label draws influences from the graphic underworld and is unafraid to be bold. Taking inspiration from streetwear and gothic cultures, Undercover clothing acts as the middleman between Japan's artisanal aesthetic and the youth fuelled anarchy of 70s London Punk.
Aligning with Rick Owens’s ideas of nonconformity, luxury haute couture house Maison Margiela is known for deconstruction and anonymity. Embracing creativity rooted in authenticity, community, and self-expression, the label focuses on raw hems, inside-out seams, and conceptual tailoring.
Discover discounts in the Rick Owens Sale