A DENIM ARTISAN: MASTERCRAFT UNION & DONWAN HARRELL

The brainchild of Donwan Harrell, Japanese label MasterCraft Union, was relauched this year, delivering on an assortment of beautifully produced denim jeans, vintage inspired jackets and graphic printed jersey. Based on the ethos of Takumi, where a practioner dedicates their life to the pursuit of excellence and ultimate proficiency of one specific skill or practice, MasterCraft Union pursues a similar devotion of mastery - but through a distinctly personal lens. Because for Donwan, MasterCraft Union isn’t just a tribute to Japanese craftmanship, it’s also his story woven into the fabric of every piece. "I was the first to go to Kojima with the goal of developing denim for the outside world - at a level no one was attempting at the time."

That’s how Donwan Harrell, the American designer and denim pioneer behind MasterCraft Union, sees his place in the evolution of Japanese denim. While Kojima, Okayama is now universally recognised as the pinnacle of denim craftsmanship, that reputation didn’t appear overnight. It was shaped - in part - by visionaries like Donwan who saw potential beyond the borders of Japan and challenged its mills and artisans to go further than they ever had before.
Donwan’s relationship with Kojima began decades ago, long before the region had achieved cult-like status among denim aficionados. “My relationship with Kojima started many, many years ago by me just shopping Shibuya, seeing the denim wash development there and I decided to inquire where it was made, and it said it was in Kojima,” Donwan reflected as he commented on his relationship with the denim capital of Japan, “I’m the type of person if I hear about something, about a new location, I get up and go.”

What he found wasn’t just high-quality denim, but a culture of craftsmanship. A willingness to perfect, refine, repeat. For Donwan, who had already made his mark as International Director of Organized Team Sports at Nike - designing kits for the 1996 U.S. Olympic team and top international football teams including the 1998 World Cup - that mentality resonated. It mirrored his own approach to design: obsessive, uncompromising, exacting.
 
In the early 2000s, Donwan founded PRPS, the first American denim brand to manufacture in Japan and worn endlessly by the likes of David Beckham, Keanu Reeves and Brad Pitt. His demands were high - deeper fades, more complex washes, authentic vintage treatments. “I consider myself to be a denim artisan when it comes to jeans and the art of making washes that have a strong vintage appeal,” Donwan offered when asked about what he considers his craft to be. His persistence, technical skill, and eye for detail pushed the mills and wash houses to innovate. He wasn’t just sourcing from Japan - he was asking more of it.

That philosophy continues today with MasterCraft Union, now reimagined in 2025 under his creative direction, a reflection of Donwan’s own denim journey - a distillation of decades spent perfecting the art and science of denim. MasterCraft Union isn’t simply a homage to Japanese craftsmanship. “This isn’t just a love letter to Japanese denim,” Donwan says. “It’s what happens when visionary design meets meticulous craft.” 

Every denim piece is designed with intent - a convergence of vintage Americana, military influences, and rugged utility - executed with the precision only Kojima’s craftsmen can deliver. From faded selvedge jeans to distressed military jackets, each garment is shaped by natural materials, discreet detailing, and a lived-in aesthetic that captures both nostalgia and innovation. “I think the thing that makes it unique is capturing the exact detail of what it is that the designer is asking them to replicate, and their interpretation of what it is that I, as a designer, wanted them to create.”

Paying respect to the area, which has served as a hub for textile craftmanship dating back to the 19th century, and a s a testament to their rich heritage, Donwan regularly visits the region to work closely with the local masters on perfecting denim to fit his specific criteria. Handcrafted by artisans using premium cotton sourced from around the globe, The jeans, in particular, are a signature - washed to perfection using traditional dyeing techniques honed over generations. “It was actually mind-boggling that the amount of detail and enthusiasm and eagerness to getting things 100% correct,” Donwan commented on the level of care experienced at the denim factories, “it matched my energy and so I felt comfortable developing product here.” That synergy - between Donwan’s standards and Kojima’s execution - is what sets MasterCraft Union apart. It’s not just a brand rooted in quality; it’s a brand forged through collaboration, respect, and mutual pursuit of excellence.